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@bobleeswagger3765 personally I would go with a Pandor's box DX Special. There will be a new version of the 10th anniversary that will work with a trackball. If you must have GT then cheese are the better choice for sure, get the one with the most games!

@@RetroactivearcadeCa thanking you

Yes and no. The basic OBSF 30 or 20 millimeter buttons used in fight sticks, any "basic normal game" and such use a different type of switch that has a ball bearing and spring and two contacts working together with clever shapers in plastics to make a switch that is somewhat similar to linear cherry MX switches. Some japanese retro keyboards use same basic mechanism for their keys. BUT also yes as Sanwa buttons used in rhythm games, that are square, or rectangular, or big hamburger shaped round (If you seen; Beatmania IIDX; Pop'n Music, Sound voltex) use sanwa buttons that are just about same with american style microswitch buttons shown here. Same ability to insert LED's inside for controller illumination, microswitch on bottom and springs. Only difference is the microswitches used are Omron that have wider range of options and are frankly said higher quality. If you order an aftermarket controller to play these types of games at home you DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE MICROSWITCH. Honeywell is default from some makers and while light they wear down and become fuzzy fast. Actual arcades default to springs with 100g switches that should with heavy use become easier to play with than brand new, but other Japanese/Round 1 western venues opt to tweak the switches down to 50g or 25g omrons. If you are interested in type of button I am talking about; Search for Sanwa OBSA-45UK. If you are interested in lighter than standard 100g Omron microswitches, search for VX-01-1A3 for 50g force switch or if even lighter, 25g omron is D2MV-01-1C2. Though according to one review, Tactical and Audible feedback from the switch is all but gone at that point making VX-01-1A3 most likely best button microswitch, if you want a microswitched button for it's tactile properties.

@@SumeaBizarro Okay I just meant the typical standard arcade buttons

Any of these buttons will work but most common is the Suzo Happ

Hi, the joystick hitting the sides of the hole is 1 of 2 issues either your holes are too small (usually holes are same as button holes) or you stick is mounted too low. Most people would resess the bottom of the wood about a 1/4" on a 3/4" panel so it allows for more travel. You can use a grommet/dowel insert for your screws or you can use crush/lock washers where your screw heads meet the joystick so the screws don't wiggle out over time. The best way is to use a small carriage bolt right through the control panel for optimal strength but guys don't like seeing the screws so......

@@RetroactivearcadeCa awesome thank you for the quick reply! I'll play around with the hole and see what I can do. Carriage bolt is a good idea, I could make it so the vinyl I'm going toinstall will cover the bolt. Thanks a lot!

@@nephilimbray Hole issue: bigger hole or router 1/4" from bottom to raise mount. You can router the top hole with a 1/4" round or 45 angle to open the hole a bit (chamfered inside edge); or just drill a bigger hole. It is covered by the dust cover. Carriage bolts - counterbore holes to be flush or use countersink flat heads and countersink the hole to be flush. First method used on arcades to hide bolts under vinyl control top and some holes even epoxied to be flat finish before vinyl covering.

Just so you know, we have the same ones and we call them Fusion buttons. And just so everyone knows, they are from China called Crown buttons. All the same, thanks for the heads up!

@RetroactivearcadeCa good to know! Always good to have multiple hardware shops to choose from (just gonna add you guys to the list real quick😅). Forgot to say it earlier, great vid!

Oh hey... might want to clarify on website or vids that fusions are goldleaf buttons (if you don't already)... if people (like me, new to the hobby) are looking for those and don't see the term, they'll likely go to the next guy.

Just because Ulltimarc brands it a certain way doesn't mean that it is a standard. You should do your homework.

@@RetroactivearcadeCa Crown is KOREAN, Does it look chinese? Trying to make a reference to Dave Chappelle joke.

It wouldn't hurt to do it but you don't have to.

@@RetroactivearcadeCa Gotcha and thanks boss.

Yeah. They're either on or off, in other words, digital. Analog joysticks operate under a range of voltages, allowing for contol by applying varying positions along a single axis. He has it reversed.

I agree he’s wrong but we had analog media before digital, so in his mind maybe the old microswitches are ‘analog’ and the newer controls with variable positions are ‘digital’.

@@glxxyz A common misconception, no doubt.

analogue a person or thing seen as comparable to another. Yah! Reel Tape vs CD, Op amp vs TTL, micro switch vs micro switch. Oh, One don't seem like the other... Who moved that Ultimarc UltraStik? Com'on guys. I'm doin' a very important vid.

The Sanwa buttons are a higher quality momentary pushbutton because they are a digital connection. They have a better response rate with no moving parts other than the plunger touching the pcb. This will work a lot better for what you are thinking and they are allow a lot more shallow than traditional push buttons so they will fit in a smaller housing.

@@RetroactivearcadeCa O.Ob Thank you.

@@RetroactivearcadeCa There is no PCB. There is moving parts. Sanwa button is a ball bearing, spring, two contacts (those contacts extend outside where you connect the button from) and plunger. When pressed metal bearing touches contacts, when released shape of the plastics inside and plunger raise the ball bearing up and away from the contacts. Zero PCB, just something similar to leaf switch with crazy japanese engineering. And it is not me saying that. A mechanical keyboard fan "Chryosan" on youtube who has switches dating back to 50's and 60's listed Japanese style switch used in some Japanese keyboards that is also the type of switch used in sanwas as "one of the most baffling and crazy switch mechanisms I have seen, what the heck is even going on here?" But; still. Contacts, bearing, spring (Spring is shaped like a horn), cleverly shaped housing in plastics for everything. Works. spring works both for the benefit of the mechanism and what springs do best. Likely very similar to leaf switches not available anymore. Also likely reason they are used in those hybrid buttons to have old feeling buttons with closer to pre-microswitch only world of western buttons.

If your monitor has a VGA input then you can connect it directly. If not then you need the CGA converter

Yes you will have to cut it off and use the connector size for the microswitches which should be .187 or you can solider the wires to the microswitch directly.

If you remove the spring they technically will have the same travel. and unless you go lower than 50g microswitch, the springs can be removed.

@@NinjaRed5000 The fusion buttons most likely use a japanese style switch, (not a microswitch just a switch or mechanical button mechanism if you want to go with that) - but seems to be unique to the fusion buttons, pictures of the product are not good enough to make guesses. If you want a microswitch button, but tweak it's properties one is to remove the springs, microswitches unless you go to extremely light ones like 15g honeywells are strong enough alone. Other is to look into Omron made ones. They have a variety of activation strengths that also help the button feel right, but with less force. Hardcore rhythm gamers tweak this a lot since games like beatmania IIDX or Sound Voltex use big sanwa buttons that are like american buttons, long, spring, microswitch, but for ease of very rapid rhythm gaming even game centers (or ; Japanese Arcades) tweak the hardware to have 50g or 25g omron switches and ligher spring, or no spring. I myself last time I owned one used 50g omrons without a spring and those were easy enough for me to use. 15g honeywell was actually nice to use, but the quality was so low that even a single person use of a controller caused fuzzy inputs before even a full year of owning my first controller. TL;DR: No, likely, if you want to go for microswitch buttons and look into omron switches. Panasonic was apparently another but their best is not even available anymore making Omron the only Japanese, and high quality option with granular choices for your activation strength.

A true competition fight stick for newer games like Street Fighter and Mortal Combat on your Xbox or PS 5 use the JLF, Hori etc. If you want to kick it old school and play retro games, The Suzo/IL are the best for those games for sure.

@@RetroactivearcadeCa Thank you for the advice. I just got the IL Eurostick in the mail. I thought it was an exaggeration that the the lever had a lot of tension on it but, no, *it really has a lot of tension!* It feels as if it would be a real workout. I think my Korean back dash would last for a couple games and then my arm would be too tired to do it correctly. lol

Your black wire (Ground) attaches to the bottom connector that has a 90 degree bend in it. The middle button is where you connect your action (Live) wire.

@@RetroactivearcadeCa thank you. So much for. You. You. Answer. I apréciate. 🙏

@@RetroactivearcadeCa 3a game is a website

check out a GRS Arcade Flight Stick by tsticks (Baolian Industry Co. Tron stick remake). The orignal stick parts needs to be retrofitted and you need a lathe to cut a length of hollow rod with groves for the clips before mounting the housing halves.

There are many vids on youtube showing mods using the GRS Arcade Tron/Flight Stick

The small ones likely use same switch used in the round OBSF buttons; and if you are indeed a madlad I can respect, they should be the same. The bigger ones used in beatmania and such use a microswitch and are extremely similar and same to american buttons with microswitches presented here. If you actually want to build a fighting game controller with beatmania OBSA-45UK buttons, I respect you, a stranger as much as my own mother and would also implore you to look into lightest spring possible, or removing springs entirely, and go with Omron microswitches either VX-01-1A3 for 50g actuation force, down from standard 100g, still having tactile and audible click, or D2MV-01-1C2 for absolutely light 25g force but also tactile feel from the switch according to some all but gone.

@@SumeaBizarro Thanks for the advice, and the reverence. :)

Great point, but his intention is ok

There is no microswitch in the goldleaf button - there is a LEAF SWITCH inside the button housing. A leaf switch is simply 2 metal contacts that complete the circuit when you press the button. They take less force to activate, the current flow is immediate, and they don't have the "clicky" sound that microswitch buttons are known for. Leaf switches are often used in virtual pinball cabinets, especially for flipper buttons.

@@andrewjameslyon Thanks I finally figured out how leaf switches opporate. I did discover they are mainly used for pinball machines although I'm not using leaf buttons for pinball. At this point I'm not sure if I like leas and am considering trying something with a micro switch like some IL buttons or happ.

When you are playing the game it should just be the start button, it will bring up a menu asking if you want to pause continue or exit